Kel and I decided, since our Bali holiday was cancelled, to hike the 6 Foot Track. It's a three day, 45k walk that runs from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves (or vice versa, which is what we did). With a wretched hangover I packed my bags on Sunday and we got a lift to the caves, where we stayed overnight before starting the hike. A few beers and a huge steak sorted the hangover out a degree; we divvied out food up and packed bags and were ready to go bright and early (although not at the crack of dawn as we had boasted to the reception girl!).
The walk started off with a challenge - a fairly steep incline that took us about an hour to conquer. An hour, and several stops! We got to the Jenolan Caves Cottages (which would have made a good starting point for an easier walk) and from there it was smooth going. Wide path (6 foot in fact, ha ha), rolling hills all around and relatively easy walking - mainly flat with a little downhill. We paused for lunch (mmmm tuna wraps!) at Black Range camping ground and enjoyed the surprising Autumn sun.
The walk after lunch was tops - again, very easy going and it was through lots of gum forest. We covered a lot of ground as we were hoping to make it as far as possible (having heard the last day was going to be a nightmare). The map we had was poor - we were heading for the rain gauge but we missed it and ended up walking about 2k further downhill before finding a campsite. We settled in for the night - I was excited to put up my new tent for the first time (not without a few confusions, mind!) and relaxed over a campfire, camp food and camp whiskey!
I had panicked that I'd be freezing - the Blue Mountains in winter had me terrified, so I'd overcompensated and taken a thermarest as well as a -10 sleeping bag. As a result I was totally overheated...but at least not cold. I always sleep poorly while camping (and generally, actually) but it was very exciting in my one-man home and I thoroughly enjoyed it.
The next morning we headed off, stiffly and steeply, downhill to find the elusive rain gauge. We had to cross a few creeks (Kel did this far more elegantly than I; my shoes and socks were wet the first one we hit!), and passed through private land that had several lovely camp sites. We continued on to find Allum Creek camping ground, which meant we'd walked much further than we'd though which was welcome news. We got water from the creek there (the ranger had said it was drinkable...but to be honest we were keen for morning coffee so it wouldn't have mattered too much!). After that we continued the day's hike - slightly up hill but again flattening out to a comfortable walk down to Cox's River camping ground.
We lunched at Cox's River before heading on - again under the theory of covering as much ground before the last Death Day. Just after Cox's River is a suspension bridge, built to be used when the river below is flooded and too high to cross. Kel was keen as mustard to try this; I am scared of heights but convinced myself it'd be a great opportunity to try and conquer said fear. Oh stupid, stupid girl. The bridge was made of chicken wire (well, admittedly, more stable...but only just) and was very narrow. I'd only gone a few steps (although Kel says it was halfway) and I got bloody caught. The chicken wire had snagged the tent on the back of my pack, and there was no moving. I completely freaked out. There was lots of loud, panicked, unlady-like cussing, and more than a few tears. Eventually I was able to unhook myself (I couldn't look at it to work out what to do - too scared!) and keep going. After that, though, I came out of the sheltered part and the wind hit and it was all I could do to look ahead, hang on tight to the wire and keep moving. I finally made it to safe solid ground and quite literally sobbed like a schoolgirl! I didn't see Kel crossing but she said she found it hard also...and had to pick up the jacket I dropped half way across!
The rest of that day was a delight in comparison to Bridge From Hell. A gradual include out of Cox's River Valley, and long views of the mountains ahead all the way along. We passed a lot of private property, and had to climb over lots of stiles as we went, which was murder with a pack on. The Megalong Valley stretched out ahead and we finally made it - very tired at this stage - to the cemetary. From there we took a detour to the Old Ford campsite (home of the world's grossest unisex loo. The cleanest thing in there was the loo brush!) where we pitched up for the night.
Again, this was lovely - the camp fire was reluctant to light, but we managed to relax with an Indian-esque stew (sounds scary but was tops!), more whiskey and some firecrackers that went completely askew and chased us when lit! Kel also invented the best camping tiramisu for dessert - a chocoalte muffin bar, smothered with coffee and milk from a tube, drowned in warm custard and sprinkled in crunchy brown sugar!! Too too unhealthy, but apparently sugar is important to keep one warm at night, and who am I to argue with such camping law?!
The final morning was a bit tough. Kel was sore, and we had no water. Luckily, the nice young Canadian tourists camping nearby helped us out waterwise and Kel managed to talk her body into action, and we headed off anticpating a challenging walk.
The maps indicated that the final leg would be a very steep uphill climb, and fellow walkers (from the opposite direction) had been very pessimistic about what lay ahead for us. As it happened, the incline was initially gradual, and we covered a lot of it just in walking up to Nellie's Glen. Shortly after this, the steps started - we'd agreed to have lunch at the base of them to build up energy and then take it slowly up. Which we did, quite successfully! They were difficult, but not nearly as horrendous as anticipated. We climbed through the green rainforest environment slowly - it was wet and slippery, with lots of lush waterfalls and dark green leaves. The blue sky peeped out the top, getting ever closer as we huffed and puffed our way to the top.
We finally reached Explorer's Tree - all up it had taken us three hours from leaving camp. We then started to head to Katoomba - which was nothing like the 1k walk as we'd been informed. A taxi passed us, and we must have looked so desperate he radioed back and another one came and picked us up. We went straight to the pub for a few delicious coldies and talked ourselves up before heading back on the train to Sydney.
Kel is going to be writing our adventures up in Outdoor Magazine. Hopefully all bridge related tantrums will be omitted!
